> ## Documentation Index
> Fetch the complete documentation index at: https://docs.dwe.ai/llms.txt
> Use this file to discover all available pages before exploring further.

# aquaLUX MAX Operations Guide

<Warning>
  **Read this guide thoroughly before operating or installing the lights.** Failure to follow these procedures will result in out-of-warranty damage to the lights and cameras.
</Warning>

## 1. Power Requirements & Hardware Safety

| Input Specification     | Range |
| ----------------------- | ----- |
| **Power Input Voltage** | 6-60V |
| **PWM Signal**          | 3-6V  |

### Power Sequencing

These lights draw extremely high peak power. Strict power sequencing is required to avoid permanently damaging the lights and cameras.

<Steps>
  <Step title="Secure all cables before powering on">
    Never connect or disconnect the Cobalt connectors while the system is live. Always power down completely before unplugging any components.
  </Step>

  <Step title="Verify your PWM output is ≤ 6V">
    Unlike the aquaLUX Nano, exceeding 6V on the PWM signal will **immediately damage the LED driver**.

    <Check>
      If you are driving the lights from an **explore3D** or **stellarHD Elite**, no configuration is needed — both output a safe 3.3V PWM strobe signal automatically.
    </Check>
  </Step>
</Steps>

## 2. Operational Limits & Thermal Management

<Warning>
  Peak power draw is **120W**. Sustained peak brightness will overheat and **melt the LEDs even underwater**.
</Warning>

| Parameter                             | Value  |
| ------------------------------------- | ------ |
| **Maximum Strobe Brightness (dweOS)** | 500    |
| **Recommended Camera Framerate**      | 15 FPS |

The lights support up to 60 FPS, but **15 FPS is strongly recommended**: it allows the LEDs to reach their full peak brightness for the best image quality.

### Thermal Failsafe

The controller has an internal temperature sensor that throttles output during overheating. This is a **last-resort safeguard**, not an operating mode — repeatedly triggering it will significantly shorten the lights' lifespan.

## 3. Configuring Exposure & Strobe Brightness

The lighting system currently supports **manual exposure only**. Set a fixed exposure first, then dial in the strobe.

<Tip>
  Auto-strobe brightness is planned for a future update.
</Tip>

<Steps>
  <Step title="Set baseline exposure (lights OFF)">
    With the strobe lights off, dial in your camera's exposure time.

    <Tabs>
      <Tab title="Dark scenes">
        Start at an exposure time of **135** (at 15 FPS). This caps the maximum strobe output, keeping the lights within safe thermal limits.
      </Tab>

      <Tab title="Bright scenes (sunlight / caustics)">
        Start at **100** (at 15 FPS). Lower the value further if the image is still too bright.
      </Tab>
    </Tabs>
  </Step>

  <Step title="Adjust strobe brightness">
    With the baseline exposure locked, increase the strobe brightness to taste.

    <Note>
      **Signal delay:** There is a small hardware delay between the strobe signal and the LED firing, so the LED will not activate until a minimum brightness value is reached.

      In dark scenes this is invisible because the strobe dominates the exposure. In bright, caustic scenes the ambient light dominates, making the delay more apparent. A signal-offset fix is in development; in practice the delay does not affect overall performance.
    </Note>
  </Step>

  <Step title="Use distance — not settings — to control brightness">
    Once exposure and strobe are locked in, you should rarely touch them again. Use your physical distance from the subject to control scene brightness:

    * **Too bright →** you're too close
    * **Too dark →** you're too far

    This naturally enforces a consistent standoff distance, which is critical for mapping quality: too close and surface features become hard for the software to track; too far and water turbidity degrades image clarity.
  </Step>
</Steps>